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Guide · sourcing

Buying a classic car abroad: the 2026 checklist

How to shop for a classic car in another country without getting burned — provenance checks, transport, customs, registration, and the red flags that should end the deal.

8 min read

The short answer

Buying a classic across a border isn't harder than buying domestically — it just has more moving parts that all need to land correctly. Get the provenance check right, factor in transport + customs honestly, and use a local pre-purchase inspection. In that order.

Most problems we see with imported cars trace back to skipping the local pre-purchase inspection because the seller was "trusted." Trust is useful; it's not a substitute for a specialist walking around the car in the metal.

Provenance first

Before you transfer money, confirm:

  • VIN + chassis-number match to what the seller is advertising. Photograph both from the car itself, not from paperwork.
  • Title / ownership history is clean. In the US, ask for the title document; in the UK, the V5C; in the EU, the logbook (Fahrzeugbrief / carte grise / libretto).
  • Matching-numbers status. For a 190SL, E-Type, or long-case 911, mismatched numbers cut the post-restoration market value by 30–50%. The seller should know — if they don't, assume non-matching until proven otherwise.
  • Accident history. For US cars, Carfax or AutoCheck. For EU cars, look for mismatched panel gaps and ask directly.
  • Prior restoration. A previously-restored car can be wonderful or a disaster. Ask for photos of the previous work, not just the finished product.

Don't skip any of these because the car looks good online. We've seen six-figure cars with fabricated chassis numbers.

Use a local pre-purchase inspection

Engage a specialist in the seller's country — not the seller's preferred mechanic — to do a walk-around:

  • Body survey: paint thickness readings, panel gap measurements, sill + floor inspection.
  • Mechanical: compression + leakdown on the engine, transmission shift behaviour, brake test, steering wear points.
  • Electrical: headlights, gauges, fuel gauge, heater, wipers — every switch.
  • Documentation cross-check: VIN on chassis matches title, engine number matches chassis records where relevant.

This costs €300–€700 depending on country. It's the single highest-ROI spend in the whole process.

Transport options

OptionTypical cost (2026)Transit timeBest for
Open trailer, EU → EU€500–€1,2003–7 daysDriver-grade cars
Enclosed trailer, EU → EU€900–€1,8005–10 daysShow Driver+, high-value
Sea freight, US → EU (shared container)€2,500–€3,5004–6 weeksAny non-European purchase
Enclosed sea freight (sole container)€6,000+4–6 weeksConcours / Carrera RS / 300SL
Consolidated run (our bi-monthly Rotterdam–Bucharest)€600–€1,000 per carcoordinated scheduleCars coming to our workshop

Budget in loading and unloading at both ends — often €200–€400 extra if the car doesn't roll. Discuss winching + tie-down if the car has seized brakes or a non-running engine.

Customs and VAT

This is where most first-time importers get surprised:

  • Inside the EU: freely moveable between member states. No customs. VAT settled in the origin country if it was a private sale; no further VAT if both seller and buyer are private.
  • UK → EU (post-Brexit): 10% duty + 19–21% VAT on the declared value (varies by EU country). Classic cars >30 years old registered at origin get a reduced 5% VAT in some EU countries — Romania included. Check your specific country's rules.
  • US → EU: 10% duty + 19–21% VAT. Cars >30 years old: reduced-VAT status in most EU countries (5% in Romania) if correctly classified at customs. Get a customs broker who's done classic-car imports before — they know the right codes.
  • Classic status: the "historic vehicle" classification (30+ years, in original configuration) cuts VAT dramatically. Ensure your customs broker applies it.

Budget €2,000–€8,000 for customs + VAT on a typical mid-tier EU-destined import from the US, after the reduced-VAT classic rate.

Registration

Once the car's in your country:

  • Romania: RAR inspection, translated documents, historic-vehicle registration paperwork. All-in ~€500 including the plates. We can coordinate on your behalf for cars passing through our workshop.
  • Germany: TÜV inspection + H-plate for classics 30+ years. Around €1,200 all-in.
  • UK: V55/5 form, NOVA for imports, MoT. ~£500–£800.

Red flags that should end the deal

  • Seller refuses a pre-purchase inspection by an independent specialist.
  • VIN plates that don't match the chassis stamping (look at both).
  • "Undercoating" that hides bodywork you can't see — always ask for the car without fresh undercoat.
  • Fresh paint with no disclosure. Could be hiding anything. Ask when, why, and to see photos of the bare panel.
  • Engine number "restamped" — sometimes legitimate after a rebuild, often indicates a non-matching-numbers swap.
  • Pressure to "decide today" — no legitimate seller of a quality classic operates this way.

How we help

When clients ask us to source + import a car, we handle:

  1. The provenance check against registry data.
  2. A pre-purchase inspection in the origin country (we've built a network of trusted inspectors in Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands, UK, US).
  3. Transport end-to-end via our partner logistics.
  4. EU customs clearance with correct classic-vehicle classification.
  5. Registration paperwork at the destination country (Romania primarily; other EU by arrangement).

This service runs about 8–12% of the vehicle value on top of transport + customs costs — but it removes almost every way the deal can go sideways.

Read our restoration cost guide for what to budget once the car arrives.

Frequently asked

What's the cheapest way to get a classic from the US to Europe?

Shared-container sea freight, €2,500–€3,500 for a standard-size sedan or sports car in 2026. Transit is 4–6 weeks. Enclosed container costs from €6,000 and is only worth it for Concours-grade cars.

Do I need a customs broker?

Yes. Classic-car imports benefit hugely from the reduced-VAT status in most EU countries, but only if correctly classified at customs. A broker who's done classics before saves you thousands.

Can I drive the car home from the UK myself?

After Brexit this is much harder — you need to clear customs at the EU border, which means paperwork prepared in advance. Professional transport is usually cheaper than the faff.

What's the reduced-VAT classic status in Romania?

Cars over 30 years old in original configuration qualify for 5% VAT instead of 19%. The customs broker must use the correct HS code at clearance. Documentation showing the car's age and original spec (period brochures, FIVA card, period photographs) strengthens the classification.

Should I have the restoration done in the origin country or after import?

Usually after import, because European labour rates vary a lot. A UK-sourced car restored in Romania at €60/hr versus UK at €110/hr saves meaningful money on a 1,200-hour build. The calculation flips if the car needs specialist attention that only exists near the source.

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