The short answer
Buying a classic across a border isn't harder than buying domestically, but it has more moving parts and each one has to land correctly. Get the provenance check right, budget honestly for transport and customs, and use a local pre-purchase inspection.
Most problems we see with imported cars trace back to skipping the local pre-purchase inspection because the seller was "trusted." A trusted seller doesn't replace a specialist walking around the car in the metal.
Provenance first
Before you transfer money, confirm:
- VIN and chassis-number match to what the seller is advertising. Photograph both from the car itself, not from paperwork.
- Title / ownership history is clean. In the US, ask for the title document; in the UK, the V5C; in the EU, the logbook (Fahrzeugbrief / carte grise / libretto).
- Matching-numbers status. For a 190SL, E-Type, or long-case 911, mismatched numbers cut the post-restoration market value by 30–50%. The seller should know. If they don't, assume non-matching until proven otherwise.
- Accident history. For US cars, Carfax or AutoCheck. For EU cars, look for mismatched panel gaps and ask directly.
- Prior restoration. A previously-restored car can be wonderful or a disaster. Ask for photos of the previous work, not just the finished product.
Don't skip any of these because the car looks good online. We've seen six-figure cars with fabricated chassis numbers.
Use a local pre-purchase inspection
Engage a specialist in the seller's country (not the seller's preferred mechanic) to do a walk-around:
- Body survey: paint thickness readings, panel gap measurements, sill and floor inspection.
- Mechanical: compression and leakdown on the engine, transmission shift behaviour, brake test, steering wear points.
- Electrical: every switch, including headlights, gauges, fuel gauge, heater and wipers.
- Documentation cross-check: VIN on chassis matches title, engine number matches chassis records where relevant.
This costs €300–€700 depending on country, and it is the best-value money you will spend in the whole process.
Transport options
| Option | Typical cost (2026) | Transit time | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open trailer, EU → EU | €500–€1,200 | 3–7 days | Driver-grade cars |
| Enclosed trailer, EU → EU | €900–€1,800 | 5–10 days | Show Driver+, high-value |
| Sea freight, US → EU (shared container) | €2,500–€3,500 | 4–6 weeks | Any non-European purchase |
| Enclosed sea freight (sole container) | €6,000+ | 4–6 weeks | Concours / Carrera RS / 300SL |
| Our Rotterdam–Bucharest run (on demand) | €800–€1,400 per car | scheduled per booking | Cars coming to our workshop |
Budget for loading and unloading at both ends, often €200–€400 extra if the car doesn't roll. Discuss winching and tie-down if the car has seized brakes or a non-running engine.
Customs and VAT
- Inside the EU: freely moveable between member states. No customs. VAT settled in the origin country if it was a private sale; no further VAT if both seller and buyer are private.
- UK → EU (post-Brexit): 10% duty plus import VAT at the destination country's rate (21% in Romania since 1 August 2025). Classic cars >30 years old registered at origin get a reduced import VAT rate in some EU countries; in Romania that is 11% since 1 August 2025. Check your specific country's rules.
- US → EU: 10% duty plus import VAT at the destination country's rate (21% in Romania). Cars >30 years old: reduced-VAT status in most EU countries (11% in Romania since 1 August 2025) if correctly classified at customs. Get a customs broker who has done classic-car imports before and knows the right codes.
- Classic status: the "historic vehicle" classification (30+ years, in original configuration) cuts VAT dramatically. Ensure your customs broker applies it.
Budget import VAT at the reduced classic rate (11% of the customs value in Romania) plus broker and port fees on a typical mid-tier import from the US.
Registration
Once the car's in your country:
- Romania: RAR inspection, translated documents, historic-vehicle registration paperwork. All-in ~€500 including the plates. We can coordinate on your behalf for cars passing through our workshop.
- Germany: TÜV inspection and H-plate for classics 30+ years. Around €1,200 all-in.
- UK: V55/5 form, NOVA for imports, MoT. ~£500–£800.
Red flags that should end the deal
- Seller refuses a pre-purchase inspection by an independent specialist.
- VIN plates that don't match the chassis stamping (look at both).
- "Undercoating" that hides bodywork you can't see. Always ask for the car without fresh undercoat.
- Fresh paint with no disclosure, which could be hiding anything. Ask when, why, and to see photos of the bare panel.
- A "restamped" engine number. It is sometimes legitimate after a rebuild, but often indicates a non-matching-numbers swap.
- Pressure to "decide today".
How we help
When clients ask us to source and import a car, we handle:
- The provenance check against registry data.
- A pre-purchase inspection in the origin country.
- Transport end-to-end via our partner logistics.
- EU customs clearance with correct classic-vehicle classification.
- Registration paperwork at the destination country (Romania primarily; other EU by arrangement).
This service runs about 8–12% of the vehicle value on top of transport and customs costs.
Read our restoration cost guide for what to budget once the car arrives.