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Oldtimer Studio
Multi-layer oven paint

Painting & Bodywork

Impeccable paintwork in any colour: period-correct, custom or special-effect. Multi-layer application with a protective clear coat for lasting depth and gloss.

Our painting process

We paint any type of vehicle in any colour, including special effects and custom finishes on request. Once the colour is built up in multiple layers, we apply a protective clear coat for lasting depth and gloss.

  • Strip to bare metal
  • Panel straightening and filler work
  • Sealer and high-build primer
  • Colour coats (matched to period or custom)
  • Clear coat
  • Cut and polish

Matching the original colour

For restorations, we match the original factory colour using manufacturer records, paint codes and, where possible, surviving original paint on protected surfaces (under door handles, inside boots, beneath trim). The spray booth is temperature- and humidity-controlled, with in-house oven cure for consistent finish across body panels.

Frequently asked

Painting & Bodywork: frequently asked questions

Can you match an unusual factory colour?

Yes. We work from paint codes and spectrophotometer readings of surviving original paint. If the chip isn't stable, we can blend a match using period colour libraries.

Do you offer bare-metal respray only, or is it always part of a larger restoration?

Both. You can commission a bare-metal respray as a standalone job. Typical turnaround is 6–10 weeks, depending on bodywork condition.

How long does the new paint take to cure fully?

Surface-dry after oven cure. Fully cured (hard enough to polish and safe to wax) at 30 days. We recommend avoiding automatic car-wash brushes for the first 90 days.

Do you do custom finishes such as two-tone, metallic or candy coats?

All available. We've done period two-tones, pearl metallics, and candy coats. For anything unusual we paint a sample panel for sign-off before the car goes in the booth.

Can I choose not to do a full strip-to-metal respray?

Yes, if the existing paint is sound. We assess adhesion, film thickness, and damage zones first and will recommend either a scuff-and-shoot or a full strip based on what we find.